As a brow professional, mastering the art of shaping, laminating, lightening and tinting is just one part of the equation. To truly deliver the best results for your clients, it’s essential to understand the science of brow growth cycles: how and why brows grow, shed, and regenerate.
Whether you’re helping clients grow back over-plucked brows, planning a lamination routine, or advising on regrowth strategies, a deep understanding of the brow growth cycle is what separates good stylists from great ones.
The Brow Growth Cycle: Why It Matters for Stylists
Like the hair on our heads, eyebrows go through a growth cycle but on a much shorter timeline. This cycle determines how often brows shed, how quickly they grow back, and why some clients struggle with sparse areas or uneven regrowth.
For stylists, this insight is invaluable for:
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Planning Treatments – Knowing when a client’s brows are in the ideal phase for treatments like tinting, laminating, lightening or waxing.
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Setting Realistic Expectations – Managing timelines for regrowth, especially for clients recovering from over-plucking or hair loss.
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Preventing Damage – Avoiding over-processing brows that are in a delicate growth phase.
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Recommending Targeted Aftercare – Guiding clients on products that support regrowth and follicle health between treatments.
The Three Phases of Brow Growth
1. Anagen Phase (Active Growth Phase)
Duration: 4-6 weeks
What Happens: This is the only phase where new brow hairs are actively growing. The longer they stay in this phase, the fuller the brows will appear.
Why It Matters:
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Clients looking to grow out their brows should focus on prolonging this phase with targeted treatments and nourishing ingredients.
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Hair removal treatments like waxing or threading should be carefully timed. Removing a hair too early in this phase can weaken regrowth.
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Lightening, staining or tinting treatments are most effective in this phase because the hair is still actively growing and holds onto pigment more evenly.
Pro Tip: Peptides and follicle-strengthening treatments help extend the anagen phase, keeping hairs in the growth stage for longer.
2. Catagen Phase (Transition Phase)
Duration: 2-3 weeks
What Happens: The hair stops growing and detaches from the blood supply, preparing to shed.
Why It Matters:
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This is the most fragile phase, where brow hairs are at risk of premature shedding.
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Over-processing (like excessive lamination or over-tinting) can weaken follicles and disrupt regrowth.
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Brows may appear uneven as some hairs transition into shedding while others remain in growth.
Pro Tip: Encourage clients to use nourishing oils like Brow Code’s Brow Gold Nourishing Growth Oil to support follicle health and prevent breakage during this delicate stage.
3. Telogen Phase (Resting & Shedding Phase)
Duration: 4-8 weeks
What Happens: The hair is completely detached from the follicle and will soon shed, making room for new growth.
Why It Matters:
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Clients experiencing shedding or thinning brows are often in this phase.
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The follicle is preparing for new growth, so treatments should focus on stimulating regrowth and strengthening new hairs.
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Over-plucking at this stage can disrupt the natural cycle, delaying regrowth and leading to patchiness.
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Brow lightening treatments or tinting may fade faster during this phase, as the hair is near the shedding stage.
Pro Tip: Peptide-rich serums, like the Brow Code Multi-Peptide Growth Serum, are most effective during this phase to boost new hair production and density.
How Brow Growth Cycles Impact Treatments & Styling
Understanding the brow growth cycle can transform how you approach styling, regrowth plans, and maintenance routines for clients.
1. Brow Waxing & Hair Removal
Best Timing: Anagen Phase (when hairs are fully grown but not yet transitioning).
Stylist Strategy: Waxing too early can weaken regrowth, while waxing too late in the cycle can cause uneven regrowth patterns. Aim for a 4-6 week waxing cycle for balanced, long-term shape retention.
2. Brow Lamination
Best Timing: Late Anagen to Early Catagen Phase (when hairs are at their strongest).
Stylist Strategy: Over-processing brows that are in the Catagen Phase (when they’ve stopped growing) can lead to premature shedding and weakened strands. Spacing out lamination every 8-12 weeks prevents over-processing.
3. Tinting & Dyeing
Best Timing: Late Anagen to Early Catagen Phase (before shedding occurs).
Stylist Strategy: Tinting or staining hairs that are in the Telogen Phase may result in uneven fading as those hairs shed faster. Regular touch-ups should align with natural growth cycles for better retention.
4. Brow Lightening (Lemon Lights Service)
Best Timing: Anagen Phase (for longest-lasting, even colour retention)
Stylist Strategy: Lightening is best performed when the brows are still actively growing since the pigment in the hair is fresher and holds the colour better. Encouraging clients to use peptide-infused aftercare can support follicle health post-lightening.
5. Growth Treatments & Aftercare
Best Timing: All Phases but most effective in Anagen Phase when follicles are actively producing hair.
Stylist Strategy: Encourage clients to commit to daily use of brow growth serums and nourishing oils for at least 8-12 weeks to see visible improvements.
Supporting Healthy Brow Regrowth: Key Products for Pros
As a brow professional, recommending the right aftercare is just as important as the treatment itself. Here’s what to include in a brow regrowth plan:
Multi-Peptide Growth Serum
Ideal for: Clients with sparse, slow-growing brows
How it works: Uses a triple-peptide blend to extend the growth phase, strengthen follicles, and improve brow density over time
Results: Clinically proven to enhance fullness in as little as 12 weeks.
Brow Gold Nourishing Growth Oil
Ideal for: Aftercare post-treatment and/or clients experiencing brittle, dry, or damaged brows.
How it works: Blends castor oil, rosemary oil, and argan oil to hydrate, protect, and improve follicle health
Results: Strengthens and conditions hairs, preventing breakage and premature fallout.
Tinted Multi-Peptide Brow Gel
Ideal for: Clients looking to enhance brows while supporting growth.
How it works: Infused with 11 peptides and biotin to provide instant definition while strengthening hairs over time
Results: Combines hold, tint, and growth-supporting benefits in one.
Why Brow Growth Knowledge Elevates Your Craft
Styling the brows isn’t just about aesthetics. It’s about understanding hair biology, timing treatments effectively, and recommending science-backed regrowth solutions.
By incorporating brow growth cycle insights into your consultations and services, you not only deliver better results but also position yourself as an expert who understands the science and benefits behind what you do.
Educate your clients. Plan your treatments wisely. And always support brow health for long-term, transformative results.
